Watches & Wonders 2022

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G

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The chic chronograph in the Black Bay line in steel and yellow gold, with a self-winding Manufacture Calibre, featuring a column wheel and vertical clutch, follows in the purest tradition of sporting timepieces.

TUDOR has been producing watches that are closely tied to the world of motor sport since the presentation of the Oysterdate in 1970, the brand’s first chronograph. In the same way, since 1954 TUDOR has been constantly refining its professional divers' watches. The Blak Bay Chrono S&G model combines these traditions in a sport-chic chronograph, with contrasting sub-counters and a high-performance automatic Manufacture Calibre, with column wheel and vertical clutch.

KEY POINTS

• Satin-brushed and polished case in 316L steel and yellow gold, 41 mm in diameter, with a fixed bezel in yellow gold, insert in black anodised aluminium featuring a tachymetric scale

• Domed, frosted matt black or champagne-colour sunray satin-finish dial with contrasting circular sub-counters

• “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material

• Manufacture Calibre MT5813 chronograph, COSC-certified, with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve, column wheel and vertical clutch

• A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, bund in dark brown aged leather or riveted 316L steel and yellow gold

• Five-year transferable guarantee with no requirement for registration or periodic maintenance checks

THE SPIRIT OF EARTH AND SEA

Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono S&G has adopted the famous “Snowflake” hands, a brand signature for divers’ watches since 1969, to ensure outstanding readability against the domed dial.

Available in two versions, matt black or a sunray satin-finish champagne colour, the dial includes two recessed sub-counters in contrasting colours, a champagne colour and matt black respectively, for optimum legibility.

The sub-counters have a circular-grained finish and, inspired by the first generation of TUDOR chronographs, feature a 45-minute counter and a date aperture positioned at 6 o'clock.

The recognisable characteristics of the Black Bay are preserved in a steel and yellow gold case with a 41-millimetre diameter. Typical of the brand’s characteristic attention to detail, the design of the yellow gold pushers has been inspired by the very first generation of TUDOR chronographs. A fixed bezel in yellow gold with an insert in black anodised aluminium with tachymetric scale, complete the distinguished appearance of this sporty chronograph.

JACQUARD STRAP, STEEL AND GOLD BRACELET, OR BUND

The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrated ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership began with the launch of Heritage Chrono, the first model fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010.

For the Black Bay Chrono S&G model, TUDOR has selected a black strap woven by these traditional craftsmen.

The model is also available with a stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s.

These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction.

These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, entirely in keeping with the spirit of “1970s racing”, the Black Bay Chrono S&G offers another choice of bracelet: a bund in aged dark brown leather with ecru topstitching and a steel folding clasp.

MANUFACTURE CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE MT5813

The Manufacture Calibre MT5813, which powers the Black Bay Chrono S&G model, displays hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and date functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.

Boasting a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813 is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance exceeding the standards set by this independent institute.

In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

A high-performance movement, it was crafted in the purest watchmaking tradition, with a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch.‍

In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by the array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products. Derived from the Manufacture Calibre Breitling 01 chronograph, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and exclusive finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands, which have chosen to pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements so that both parties can benefit from their use.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like all models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Chrono S&G adopts TUDOR’s characteristic angular “Snowflake” hands, which first appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue.

The result of a subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking, the Black Bay line is far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic. In 1970, TUDOR introduced its first chronograph, the Oysterdate.

A watch that was both robust and functional, its unique design was characterised by its bright colours, its pentagonal hour markers shaped like a baseball home plate, its 45-minute counter, and its date function at 6 o'clock.

Immediately adopted by the world of motor sport, it paved the way for over 50 years of technical chronographs that TUDOR has been refining ever since.

FIVE DECADES OF TUDOR CHRONOGRAPHS

Resolutely anchored in the present, it brings together almost seven decades of TUDOR divers' watches.

Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques and its robustness, reliability, durability and precision, as well as the quality of its finish, are above modern industry standards.

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an exceptional watchmaking product, TUDOR has never stopped producing the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches in existence today. On the strength of this experience, and confident in the quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable.

ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss-made watch brand, offering watches with sophisticated style, proven reliability and unmatched value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when “The Tudor” was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He officially set up the Montres TUDOR SA company in 1946 to produce watches that respect the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality at a more affordable price point. Because of their robustness and affordability, throughout their history TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, in the air, underwater and on ice. Today the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay,Pelagos,1926 and Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered models with mechanical Manufacture Calibres with multiple functions and superior performance.

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REFERENCE 79363N

CASE
41-mm 316L steel case with polished and satin finish

BEZEL
Fixed yellow gold bezel with matt black anodised aluminium disc with tachymetric scale, gold-plated markings

WINDING CROWN
Yellow gold screw-down crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief
Yellow gold screw-down pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock

DIAL
Black with gold counters, or champagne-colour with black counters, domed
Date at 6 o'clock

CRYSTAL
Domed sapphire crystal

WATERPROOFNESS
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)

BRACELET
Riveted 316L steel and yellow gold bracelet with polished and satin finish, or dark brown leather strap with removable bund with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with buckle

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5813 with chronograph function
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system

POWER RESERVE
Approximately 70 hours

PRECISION
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)

FUNCTIONS
Hour and minute hands at the centre
Chronograph seconds at the centre
Chronograph 45-minute counter at 3 o'clock
Small second hand at 9 o’clock
Instantaneous date at 6 o'clock with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop-seconds for precise time setting

OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)

MOVEMENT DIAMETER
30.4 mm

THICKNESS
7.23 mm

JEWELS
48 jewels