The Pelagos FXD platform, initially developed with a French Navy specialist unit, has now expanded to suit the needs of the French Naval Aviation, with the addition of a function that allows aviators and flight support personnel to keep track of “Zulu time” in addition to local time and a third time zone. The new Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS to ensure maximum precision and reliability in the adverse real-world conditions endured by personnel of the Aéronautique Navale.
Since the 1950s, TUDOR has been officially supplying the Marine Nationale (French Navy) with reliable diving watches used to carry out the daring duties of naval troops for decades. The first Pelagos FXD model – “FXD” referring to the extra robust FiXeD strap bars of the watch case - was introduced in 2021, continuing the legacy of TUDOR and the French Navy. After years of use in the field, the Pelagos FXD platform has a proven track record of service.
In 2024, the FXD family is expanding to the meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation), the force responsible for naval aviation operations. The Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators – a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions. Zulu time corresponds to zero-meridian time or the time at zero degrees of longitude, commonly known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
It’s standardized use in global aviation prevents confusion in communications between nations and time zones. The word “Zulu” is the standardized phonetic alphabet code word used in aviation for “Z” or the first letter of the word “zero”.
Black matt dial
with applied hour markers filled with grade A “Swiss Super-LumiNova®” blue emission, beige-coloured luminescent material
with fixed strap bars, machined from a single block, and grade 5 titanium case back engraved with the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) logo and the inscription “M.N.24” (Marine nationale 2024), inspired by the original TUDOR M.N. engravings of the 1970s and ’80s
Flight-suit green one-piece fabric strap and five-year transferable guarantee
Extra removable fabric keeper with the French Naval Aviation roundel with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper. No registration or periodic maintenance checks required
Zulu time is tracked by the highly legible bright orange hand that completes a full lap around the dial every 24 hours. Once set, this hand typically is not reset, allowing sailors of the French Naval Aviation to check the global aviation reference time at a glance.
The angular hour hand, commonly nicknamed “Snowflake,” indicates local time. It is set through the winding crown and “jumps” in increments of one hour for easy setting when changing time zones. The date changes when the hour hand passes midnight, in either direction—backwards or forwards. A third time zone can be checked using the 24-hour luminous bi-directional bezel and the orange Zulu time hand.
Tudor and the French navy
TUDOR chose to join forces publicly with the French Navy in 2021, thus continuing a relationship that dates back to 1956. Back then, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in real-life situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft) and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the G.E.R.S. commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling TUDOR to attain the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.
TUDOR divers’ watches continued to be developed and the French Navy would use many of the brand’s timepieces over the following decades. Today, the most famous TUDOR divers’ watch used by the French Navy is the reference 9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Engraved on the case back with the initials “M.N.” followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations: first with “Snowflake” hands and hour markers and later, with triangular hour markers. This model was launched in the mid-’70s and was supplied to the French Navy until the 1980s. It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy’s diving school, as well as by combat swimmers.
In 2021, reviving this historic collaboration, TUDOR released a new technical watch for underwater navigation developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers. Based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding, the Pelagos FXD model introduced many functional features that were new to TUDOR, including its distinctive fixed strap bars machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability.
Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette. With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
This movement offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the “Master Chronometer” mention on its bridges, emphasising its superior performance. Its monobloc rotor is made of tungsten. It is openworked and features the laser radial grooving and sand-blasted details distinctive to TUDOR Master Chronometer calibers. A combination of finishings can be found on the bridges as well.
The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a fully assembled Master Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is “weekend-proof”, able to run for about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind or reset it.
FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION
The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the bay of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol plane or the air-traffic tower aboard a helicopter carrier all have one thing in common, besides being part of the French Naval Aviation force. They all operate in Zulu time. To easily keep track of Zulu time, TUDOR has developed the Pelagos FXD GMT. Based on its tried and tested FXD platform, this watch is all about functionality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars that is waterproof to 200m and fully brushed for a matt effect. The 42 millimeter case, housing a high-performance mechanical movement, features a high contrast dial and colour-coded hands, the 24-hour Zulu time arrow-head hand made distinctive thanks to the use of a bright orange lacquer. These attributes combine to allow for enhanced legibility in dark environments or at night when the potent luminous material of its hands, hour-markers and bezel allow for instant gathering of time-tracking information. Furthermore, the hour-markers as well as the hour, minute and seconds hands share a blue luminescence contrasting with the green luminous emission of the 24-hour hand and graduation on the 24-hour bezel. A detail that allows for an instinctive read of Zulu time, any time. If you add the time and date-setting practicality of the MT5652-U Manufacture Calibre to the above, with winding crown-operated, jumping-hour coupled date, you have a time-tracking tool fit for any sky-bound mission.
And to highlight the Pelagos FXD GMT’s official commission with the French Navy and its aviation arm, its grade 5 titanium case back bears the logo of the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) composed of a winged anchor topped with a star, as well as a historically inspired engraving of “M.N.24” for “Marine nationale 2024” indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch.
Historically, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise.
Two strap types appear to have been particularly used over the years: black straps made from a single piece of braided nylon, and, less commonly, handmade straps made from parachute elastic, which could be recognised by their green colour and yellow or red central thread.
It is to these ultra-functional relics, inextricably linked to the French Navy, that the fabric strap of the Pelagos FXD GMT pays tribute. In the case of the Pelagos FXD GMT, the colour of the strap matches the specific colour of the flight suit worn by aviators of the French Naval Aviation.
The single-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD model, a new, highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. Made from a 22mm green polyester woven ribbon, the strap features a grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper as well as a removable fabric keeper, finely embroidered with the French Naval Aviation’s roundel, composed of the French flag’s blue, white and red colours, circled in gold and topped with a black anchor.
By notable coincidence, Julien Faure, a family firm created in 1864, has for many years woven decorative ribbons in its workshops, bearing the names of French Navy ships and forming an integral part of the legendary bachi, the red pompom hat worn by French sailors.
THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE
Every TUDOR watch, including the Black Bay, is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in the Le Locle, Switzerland.
This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totaling more than 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighboring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016.
With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibers. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.
THE TUDOR GUARANTEE
Since the brand’s creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every ten years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.
ABOUT TUDOR
TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss-made watch brand, offering mechanical watches with sophisticated style, proven reliability and unmatched value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when “The Tudor” was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He officially set up the Montres TUDOR SA company in 1946 to produce watches that respect the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality at a more affordable price point. Throughout their history, thanks to their robustness and affordability, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, on land, in the air, underwater and on ice. Today, the TUDOR collection includes iconic lines such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered models with mechanical Manufacture Calibres with multiple functions and superior performance.
TUDOR IS #BORNTODARE
In 2017, TUDOR launched a new campaign with the #BornToDare signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. It tells the adventures of individuals who have achieved the extraordinary on land, on ice, in the air or underwater, with a TUDOR watch on their wrists. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of TUDOR, who manufactured TUDOR watches to withstand the most extreme conditions, watches made for the most daring lifestyles. It is testimony to TUDOR's singular approach to watchmaking, which has made it what it is today. At the cutting edge of the watchmaking industry, its innovations are now essential benchmarks. The TUDOR #BornToDare spirit is supported throughout the world by first class ambassadors, whose life achievements result directly from a daring approach to life.
Grade 2 titanium case, 42 mm in diameter, 12.7 mm thick, 52 mm from lug to lug, satin-brushed finish Fixed strap bars Grade 5 titanium case back
BEZEL
24-hour bidirectional rotatable bezel in grade 2 titanium with black ceramic insert
WINDING CROWN
Grade 2 titanium crown, adorned with the TUDOR shield in relief
DIAL
Black
CRYSTAL
Sapphire crystal
WATERPROOFNESS
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft) by METAS
STRAP
Fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper, green Removable fabric keeper
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U (COSC and METAS certified) Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system Integrated GMT function
POWER RESERVE
Certified 65 hours by METAS
PRECISION
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
FUNCTIONS
Centre jumping hour, 24-hour, minute and seconds hands Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range, synchronised on the jumping hour hand Stop-seconds for precise time setting
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